(Sur le pont d’) Avignon

So two weeks ago, I broke free from Languedoc-Roussillon with some other language assistants here to visit the spectacular city of Avignon in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. Having been slightly (and by slightly, I really mean completely in body and soul) obsessed with the song Sur le pont d’avignon since my French fun club days in primary school, I experienced complete euphoria at the prospect of visiting this heavenly city that certainly didn’t disappoint.

Avignon is very significant historically having been a papal centre during the Middle Ages for seven different popes. Another point of nostalgia for me (having studied the Crusades for my A Level history course) was seeing everywhere the names of Pope Urban V and Innocent VI. The sight of these names brought back all those lovely memories of learning about crusaders chopping each other’s balls off, medieval incest (Raymond & Eleanor of Aquitaine, you dirty things) and frankly being downright bastards in the name of God. It did make me wish I was studying History again. Those were the days…

Internal thought right now and one which I’m sure the majority reading are sharing:

But even if you’re not a massive history nerd like me, the Palais des Papes is spectacular. Even the floors are beautiful. The only issue is that an audio guide is necessary as there is not much information written down (however this is nowhere near as bad as the Alcazár in Sevilla – do not even get me started!). It’s also forbidden to take photos in the best rooms. So you can either comply or be sneaky when security’s not looking…

Chapelle Saint Martial (sneakily taken…) 

One of the frescos.

Chapelle Saint Jean 

In the chimney in le grand tinel and of course I had to say DIAGON ALLEY..

We also made it to the Pont d’Avignon (Pont Saint-Benézet). It was so windy though making dancing on the bridge a slightly difficult prospect! Advice: do not go if you wear a wig/toupee.. The view of the Rhône is gorgeous though. Also, listen to the original version of ‘Sur le pont d’Avignon’. Blissful nostalgia.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIRWnNOtJBE

It was lovely to visit out-of-season, especially at this time with the Christmas market all set up. Without a doubt, one of my favourite and one of the most beautiful cities in this country, Avignon is a must-see.

L. x

A piece of England in France

Town Hall – Day

Christmas Market

The spectacular Palais des Papes

Christmas Market

Christmas Market

Pont Saint-Benezet

 

Languedoc-Roussillon

Allow me to introduce my new region to you all and be jealous…

Montpellier

Montpellier is the capital of the region as well as the fastest growing city in the entire country. This is evident when you visit. It is a modern fast-moving city yet fortunately it isn’t overloaded with people. There is however always something happening in the city, especially around the lively main square Place de la Comédie overlooked by the city’s spectacular opera house. The square is particularly festive at the moment as the Christmas markets have just opened. Before the opening of the Christmas markets, there was also la Fête des Vignes where you could sample all the different wines of the region. Perfect beginning to December…

 

My friend and I at the Fête des Vignes 

Place de la Comédie with its Christmas tree

The opera house at night

As one of the main student cities in France, you can also find all the great bars (yes, MORE WINE), theatres and art galleries in Montpellier. The Musée Fabre is located just off la Comédie and is quite a unique museum. There is one room where all of the artwork is plain black (by a local artist named Vincent Cunillère). It’s actually shockingly beautiful, if just a tad pretentious.

 

Musée Fabre 

To be honest, my view of Montpellier is slightly biased as this was indeed the city to influence my decision to apply to work in Languedoc-Roussillon. So you’ll have to see it for yourselves – it is certainly worth visiting!

Nîmes

Nîmes immediately struck me as such a typically Languedoc-Roussillon town. It is absolutely breath-taking and also seemed to me to display a bit of the Roman influence found in the region. The arènes (bull ring) is one of the main attractions and dominates the view of the town centre.

Without a doubt though, my favourite place in Nîmes was the Jardins de la Fontaine. These gardens are absolutely stunning and have such a wonderfully peaceful environment.

Quais de la Fontaine

Temple de Diane 

I would definitely advise going to Nîmes if you enjoy beautiful sights and like to take advantage of the scenery and environment. It is a fantastic place to enjoy a calm day after the buzz of Montpellier.

Sète

This port town is lovely to visit however only in glorious weather. Otherwise I find it becomes completely dulled and grey. Of course, it is true that one can enjoy the other two cities better when il fait beau and the Mediterranean sun is out. The difference is that they can offer you plenty of diversions inside as well as outside. I have found that Sète really reveals its stunning side on the days where we enjoy typical South of France sunshine.

The old port at night 

 

Cool artwork near the beach

That being said, it can boast of having a beautiful theatre (Théâtre Molière) where I went with another language assistant to watch Puccini’s La Bohème. We were fortunate in finding a woman in the box office the afternoon of the performance who sold us her tickets (which turned out to be fantastic seats) for 10 euros each. Perfect way to spend a (usually tedious) Sunday afternoon!  

 

 

There is also a fantastic shop in Sete which sells both sweet and savoury biscuits as well as madeleines (so you can embrace your inner Proust). It’s decorated in a slightly Laduré style and the biscuits are slightly addictive snacks… 

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So that’s just a quick overview of three of the places that I have happened to visit on multiple occasions (and as I mentioned, in various weathers!). There is so much to see in the region though including Perpignan with its Spanish influence and Carcassonne’s medieval heritage. The entire region is beautiful wherever you decide to visit. And don’t forget the wine (which is quickly becoming the principal theme of this blog)!

L. x    

Chez moi

I’m dedicating the entirety of this blog post to my new home town Béziers. It is one of the region’s main cities after Montpellier and also one of the oldest cities in the whole of France. Located on a cliff overlooking the River Orb, it is obviously extremely hilly. Fortunately my poor legs and I have become rather accustomed to some steep climbs in the city. Apart from toning up your leg muscles, you can also find some absolutely beautiful views. Overlooking the entire city and the River Orb is its cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire) and here you are never disappointed with the view nor with the opulent interior of the cathedral itself. It is breath-taking and is even more beautiful at night when all lit up.

 

 

Just up the road from the Cathedral is Église de la Madeleine found at the conveniently named Place de la Madeleine. Not only is this another beautiful church, it is also the location of my favourite restaurant in Béziers Le Petit Montmartre. The menu changes each week and the service and food are equally amazing. The only issue is that it is extremely miniscule meaning that it is definitely worth reserving in advance especially for lunch. The Biterrois (the name for the inhabitants of Béziers) are very typically French in their gourmandise. When I first arrived, I went to the city’s Féria du Chocolat. Here you could buy all your guilty pleasures from the city’s best chocolatiers and patisseries as well as attending tastings and workshops. This was a day of self-indulgence for me who suffers from a terrible sweet tooth.        

Place de la Madeleine – exterior of the Église de la Madeleine

 

Altar of the Church

Le Petit Montmarte 

Feria du Chocolat 

A chocolate woman – naked because this is France

Those macarons, dayum dayum dayum

Another fantastic example of typical French behaviour is 20, c’est le vin. This word play (the words twenty vingt and wine vin are pronounced the same) is a staple of biterrois life and involves going to the city’s main street Allées Paul Riquet to drink wine every 20^th of the month all paid for by the local council. You read right – free wine. 

The Allées are also the main place for the city’s markets. There are markets most days however my favourite by far is the flower market on Fridays. 

To be frank, when I was posted to the region of Languedoc Roussillon, I did want to work in the region’s main city Montpellier. I am now pleased that I’m in Béziers as it has given me the opportunity to see more of the region. The city is in a fantastic location and truly shows off every facet of the region’s spectacular landscape. It can boast of being only fifteen minutes from the Mediterranean Sea, surrounded by vineyards and in the distance the Pyrenees on one side and the Massif Central on the other. It also has elements of the proximity to the Spanish border with the spectacular bull ring. 

 The River Orb links up with the Canal du Midi on the way to one of the city’s main attractions Les Neuf Écluses (Fonserannes lock). The lock is one of the major achievements of Pierre-Paul Riquet (the founder of the Canal du Midi born in Béziers). I do actually prefer the walk to the locks themselves. This is dependent however on how big a fan of engineering you are.   

 

 

The walk by the Canal du Midi

The Lock in action

Béziers is however also a paradoxical city. As is the case for many French cities (most notoriously Marseille), there is a dark side behind the beautiful façade. Walking through the city at night, I am often reminded of the Arctic Monkeys line: they say it changes when the sun goes down around here. It feels completely different and in certain quartiers, it can even be quite intimidating if alone. I have not even been to the most infamous area La Devèze where there are problems with gang culture and even Islamic extremism. On the D609 route between Narbonne and Béziers, there are also major problems with prostitutes who sit by the side of the motorway waiting for clients. I found it extremely shocking at first but it makes one reflect on just how clandestine its existence in the UK. These issues are not necessarily specific to Béziers however yet they are aspects of the life here which are frankly horrifying. I have the impression that the local government is not doing enough to help all of its citizens. There is definitely the sense of ‘them’ and ‘us’, especially in their treatment of people who come from the Maghreb ex-colonies. They are usually confined to living in areas like La Devèze or run-down apartments near the train station. I find it difficult to comprehend how the parliament cannot see how helping these people rather than isolating them would benefit the majority.

Next, my view of the other cities in Languedoc Roussillon…

L. x

Some other beautiful sights in Béziers 

The theatre at the head of the Allées

Plateau des Poetes